(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); Here are some tools I built to help with tuning cars in GT6

The tuning technique works best with no assist.

They are straight forward. And designed to aide tuners tune the car based on how it performs. All of the generic tuning apps or other Bullshit at GTP are generic crap that generically tune cars to feel and drive the exact same so they can do hot Laps in cars that all somewhat feel and handle the same way and that IMO defeats the nature of Gran Turismo in favor of Arcade style bull shit.


Dampers are tuned to spring stiffness, then tuned on the track.

The damper tuner I've been continuously testing and IMO works very well. Damper tuning can provide a lot of performance in the corners. The dampers are most active during transition points in the corners, this is why its important to first balance them to the spring rates. The Dampers literally can take your spring rates out of the equation if they are too strong, so its important to make sure the dampers are not overpowering the spring rates. During transitions in the corner they work when different corners of the car are apposing each other. The damper tuner works on this principle and uses known real world tuning technique to alter handling for the driver as the driver feels out the car/tune, adjusting as the driver needs. Keep in mind there are different techniques the tuner uses an advanced technique over basic quick method.

Neil Roberts
"TFE’s Founder and Chief Scientist, has a deep and successful experience base in top echelon race car and aircraft design and development, along with decades of practical experience in both amateur and professional motorsports. Every facet of TFE’s expertise is available to help you achieve your goals, no matter how challenging."

Neil Roberts On Damper Tuning
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I may do a write up on a much simpler technique that also uses real world techniques albeit a much quicker style its results are not as refined. It may be useful to establish a baseline tune with the results on page 1 and then use the outcome of that technique on page two to refine, but this is getting complicated.



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Gear Tuner

Video Walkthrough of the Gear Tuner Advanced Techniques coming soon.



The Dyno shows a complete graph. (I would still like to refine it with some trig)

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Calibration & Input Data.
The data you input is your best gears tuned in the game. You can use this page like the in game tuner with more and better details.

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Gear Tuner
Here is where you adjust the gear set to a particular track, adjusting the gears by speed to the corners on the track. You can also adjust the FDG keeping the same gearing.

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Shift Point Tuner
On page 3 is the Shift Point Tuner. Here you calculate when speed/rpm its best to shift at in each gear for best acceleration, and to shift under for best tranny braking.

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I left the input fields open with the tuned gear set from page 2 displayed. This way you can use the tuner quickly without having to redo pages 1 and 2.

The object is to find the crossover point on the chart. The point first crosses second is the best shift point. If they do not cross you shift at rev limit.

Settings Spreadsheet

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All tuning parts are on drop menus, if there are any suggestions let me know.

DOWNLOAD LINK
Gear Tuner / Damper Tuner / Settings Spreadsheet version 3.0

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All are opened with Excel

Camber Tuner being revised while I improve its applicability and adapt it to data logger input.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30934[/ATTACH]

help me with that please.... what value should i pu in the circle area
thanks

Does it connect over ccapi or use the save over via USB ?


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input section put min and max spring rate and ride height.

the spring tuner on top you put a number one to ten to generate a spring level the lower section use the default ride height from the standard suspension. input the amount of inch drop

the tuner on top will give a spring rate and ride height tuner gives the calculated drop. use this info in the last section

it will generate a damper setting balanced to the spring rate ofset by the imbalance of stroke created by the ride height setting

this is only a place to start fine tuning, from a balanced set up any real world damper tuning techniques work as they should, the dampers will flow with tuning instead of fighting every step of the way

Gear tuner calibration
The calibration is done trying to hit max speed in top gear near rev limit. This will set the speed calculations and use GT6 physics for rolling/wind resistance calculation. it doesnt need to be done unless results vary too much, for the most part if done one near 200mph the calculations will be good for most cars

Input data on page one

On page 2 you can vary the final drive gear keeping gearing the same and adjust the gears by speed. The speed at the top of each gear for the set input on page 1 is displayed and you can adjust the speed underneath.

It will also show the rpm window for best acceleration when shifting when power data is input

When adjusting gears it also shows the rpm the following gear will start at when redline shifting.

I will build a calc for visualizing shift points, so people can see what rpm shifting early will land them at.

Camber calc uses body roll camber vs suspension camber gain with caster and steering angle to predict static camber adjustments dynamically. Cars all start with pos 2 to neg 2 suspension camber gain. 2 pos at full extension & 2 neg at full compression. Use the in game camera to see if your riding flat in the corners. From experience cars like to sit 1degree neg dynamically.

Its important to note camber above 0/0 will reduce braking performance, this symptom amplified when using ABS. So good Camber settings will have terrible performance when ABS is used. Turn off ABS and use Street Brakes on Street cars, racing brakes on Racing cars, ABS is not necessary in GT6.

I have made some videos testing how body roll and wheel angles are simulated, showing in game caster angle / roll camber / camber gain / camber pull higher cornering G's / and ABS as a driver assist using data logger.

It will also show that ABS cancels out the negative effects of 0/0 camber settings, making the ABS work best with 0/0 camber.

Camber hurts braking and GT6 amplifies this effect when ABS is used. ABS removes Braking from the balance equation when balancing braking/cornering/accelerating. Driving assist used when tuning will require that driving assist to maintain balance. Tuning with assist basically will make the tuning/driving style dependant on that assist.

Entering a corner Hot A well balance car will either under steer or over steer depending on how the driver reacts. So most often reviews of balanced set ups where opinions seem mixed in under or over steer being the problem often its driver error causing the issues. So many rely on ABS-1 and this eliminates braking as a balance factor as long as 0/0 camber is used the setting advantageous when ABS is used.

There is no need to use ABS in GT6 it needs to be recognized for what it is, a Driver Assist making braking EASIER because the driver finds it too difficult to drive without the ABS driver assist. Equal to the guy who uses SFR to help him cornering or the guy who uses TCS to help throttle out the corner. All equal none better or worse then any other. Boy when ALL assist are turned off are we assist free driving.

I am working on an addition to the damper calc. It will use the dialled in damp settings as a base or starting point for tuning. It then splits the corner into 5 sections with a adjuster for under and oversteer in each.

You get most of the tune dialled in and run some laps identifying in what section it needs help with either under or oversteer and it will adjust the damp settings to get the desired effect in that section. Ill be putting together a tuning guide as well as giving better explinasions of how to get the most out of the tools.

The gear calc was a tough one to get the graphs. The math was the easy part (seriously) im just not great with computers it too me a while to figure out how to get excel to do it.

I was also surprised to see my calc is more correct then PD when you set max speed, the top speed my calc generates is always inside 1mph, perfect when calibrated to the car (the calibration for the most part only needs to be done one near 200mph for all cars unless there is a variation in speed calculated and speed achieved.

If anybody is good with trig I can use help making a dyno more acurote.