(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});

Now i tested Pdi rim size: standard, +1 and +2. All sizes was between 0,2 sec. The time difference should be bigger if there exists some kind of differences in performance and there should be differences in driving feeling- now I didn't notice anything, all feels same. Shelby 350, Madrid, Odes setup, G27.
Jouni

Fist up Sharpen switched to Normal, Then jumped in the Toyota 8-6 looking over settings for the Spec build. I build up the car and settled on 450pp for our Sports Hard Tires. I first test out the Stock Rims to get my initial feel (zero tuning during testing running a blind set up) Im at Silverstone (This wont be Track used for 8-6 Spec Racing) I then put on the PDI P525N NASCAR Style Standard Size, after that the Prodrive GC-010G in 1in up, then I went 2in up on some RAYS CE28N's, finally dropped down to 1 in up RAYS TE37V in Bronze (Set I intend to run my car with) I ran all these different wheels and switched sizes, nothing felt any different, the car felt and performed identical each time.


8-6 Specs coming soon...

86, prodrive... I'll join on 86 tune with ktm.
When I try to provide test bed for all, identical, it's not used, when I provide test car and setup, it's not used, how I supposed to get any real results, not answer like "that setting doesn't matter", it matter if testing, all running same configuration, all should get same results.
Power steering..then prob ABS, then SRF.. Well I drop my case, I have list of several differences on rims, and those produce same affect every time, so my mental side is pretty strong then, always getting same placebo from those.
GT350, if running all aids disabled, on mentioned ps3/gt6 setup on G27 you will find differences on rubber thickness on those wheels, explanation on thickness, rubber "bottoms" against rim. Traction lost during cornering when tires are pressured by suspension is happening on different places, small rim gives best grip until point where it slips. Bigger rim jumps bit more - not so much softness on rubber (so thin layer). ... Nobody cares, I'll just enjoy this by my self..
If someone really want to test these things I'll assume he put all settings identical, including sensitivity of FFB and steering. All like on those pictures.
Don't squeeze wheel while holding it, let it live.

Why the hell those Japanese (Kaz) can't write a manual for a freaking game in 15 year time.

I can run identical time laps, legs on real car on "any" offset of normally available, done "testing" 300 000km on same car model, with four different offsets, few different width of tires and all are giving same results. But feel of turning, or point of slipping, acceleration traction are bit different. But all are on same time margin. I have to drive a bit differently on some kinky places (like heavily railed ~50m 90 degree turn what i dive between 90kmh to 120kmh, avoiding cracks on road and hitting on 15cm margin on possible driving line), all tires are capable to do that, same speeds, but it is lighter to drive thru with some and harder with some.
So there is no difference between 16-18" 205-225 tires. All are same.

I was under the impression the rims were different and I dont see how car or set up should matter if the different rims should preform differently why dont I feel any difference.



Power Steering last I checked since 1.12 has been broken, as in does nothing at all. Ive not had time to test it, but if its been fixed I still wont test with it on as it was a type of assist Pre 1.12. I figure it was broken on purpose as it was an FFB killer and not like power steering IRL more like a supplemental assist.



I dont get it, I tried those different rims, switched sizes and |I didn't get any difference but wrong car wrong tune? if these rims are any different Im of the strong opinion that the car and tune should be irrelevant as the rims if performing different should themselves perform different no matter what car they are on or how its tuned.



Im not feeling what you're feeling



GT6 doesnt work like that. GT6 simulates 4 points of contact there is no actual track, rims or rubber. ""rubber thickness on those wheels, explanation on thickness, rubber "bottoms" against rim. "" GT6 simulates none of that, its all calculated mathematical equasions playing out with a visual representation. Yeah there is springs and weight transfer, even a spring rate associated with the tires themselves, but this all equates to contact point and grip level, and the Track and bottom of the tires do not need to meet. The wheels can cross through the track, and I can make them clip if I want to messing with rim size and ride height as the VISUAL vehicle position is fixed to the ride height setting and the bottom of the tires visually is connected to the fixed wheel size (found in the Chassis code SpecDB spes) to ride height gap presumably the center of the wheel to body .. For Example the Bandit Trans Am, If using the bigger wheels from the PMS Camaro RS going too low on the ride height will push the wheels through the track visually, the way to fix it is to raise the ride height as you raise the ride height the wheels will line up with the track.

Its awful to look at when landing any type of air, pretty much every cars tires will clip through the track past the rims lip, yuck. It can get deep on hard landings eating spokes in pavement.

Dont forget I can remove the wheels and have the car float around the track as if its hovering. There is no actual tire deformation at all, so when you see what you think is the rubbr getting squished into the rim by the pavement, I can show you the tire is just clipping and is still in full form just clipping he track.



I may not of used your car or settings but others have.. I just feel if your theory is right it should not matter what car or set up I use but I would think one of my own is probably best as tuned more to my style. I think myself testing with my car and J running your car with your tune we would cover all bases.

Just ended test with HKS GENKI HYPER SILVIA RS2 '04, fully stock, nothing changed, not even brake bias. Drive about 150 laps with it on Tsukuba, all stints with 0km car.
To keep car on 0km after buying it go Tsukuba change ABS 0 and TC 0, then enter settings change power limiter to 99.9%, accept value the re-change it back to 100%. This procedure saves ABS and TC settings so you don't have to change them again.
Use grip reduction REAL on track settings, this you have to change every time when coming back to track from rim change.
Do your laps, I take between 5 to 10 on each set.
Don't go on car settings during any of these tests, then car odometer and other values stay 0 km as just brand new car.
No oil change no any changes to car setup.

Used following rims
Standard size:
American racing VN500
Classic Steel Smooth (first of them)
ENKEI Baja
ENKEI RC-T4 (first of them, silver)
RAYS 57Xtreme
RAYS TE37V (last of them, grey)

+1" rims used:
Classic Steel Smooth (first of them)
ENKEI RC-T4 (first of them, silver)
RAYS 57Xtreme
RAYS VOLK TRINITI V (second of them, silver)
RAYS TE37V (last of them, grey)

+2" rims used:
ENKEI RC-T4 (first of them, silver)
RAYS 57Xtreme
RAYS VOLK TRINITI V (second of them, silver)
RAYS TE37V (last of them, grey)

No way to take corners same way with those rims, some are just putting car sideways, other goes straight, exciting corner, some can be pushed with heavy foot and some have to feather throttle, some are good going in, some middle, some exiting corner..
Most of them can be drive in time window 1:03.1 - 1:03.4 one of them takes easy 1:02.6, few goes barely under 1:03 and some are needing very lucky lap to go even near 1:03.2.
There is few rims what gives 99% stable laps, time varies in 1:03.1 - 1:03.3, but most of them are unstable, and really really hard to keep in small time window, too often slipping rear etc.

And those slowest and fastest get extra treatment, did several tests with them, after those quick or show stints, and always they are replicating same shit, fast is fast and slow is slow.

This can't be any placebo from my powerful mind trick, same behavior happens again and again. Even those rims what are giving times near to each other aren't behaving same, you just can't go thru corners on same braking points or exit point, those are just behaving so differently.

If testing this keep on mind how easy braking was, where you started, how far from inside of corner you drive thru, how rear handles during throttle open etc, do some remarks of behavior.

Reason for "power steering on" is simple, it reduces FFB efficiency against turn, you can replicate turn radius of wheel on every corner entry, and if behaviour of car changes using identical replicated turn radius on wheel then there has to be some differences on car, and if only thing what has changed are rims then you know where change is coming. And if behaviour between different rims is different you can make some analysis in your head how behaviour changed and where.

If power steering is off wheel resists turning much more, and you automatically try to adapt that resistance on your driving, meaning at when you have rims under what doesn't need so big turn radius on wheel you're not turning so much, and vise versa when tires requires more turning you will turn more, this makes rim test results biased.

Have you double checked? Last time I checked GT6 Power Steering option did nothing at all.

Before 1.12 it worked like in GT5 but 1.12 the FFB was updated including changed adjustments for FFB and at the same time the "Power Steering" option stopped making a difference. I don't use it and always keep it to off just in case it's fixed. I was not aware they made any changes to fix the "Power Steering" since 1.12 so I will test if its been fixed after work.

Switched between on/off about 10 times in last two days.

It has worked same way since GT5, reduces bit overall resistance, and allow quick maneuvers nearly 0 resistance. This is how they say it work, and that's the way how it works.

This is what Im talking about



If any different its been changed after 1.12 at some point, Ill have to check myself