(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); I have seen this asked so many times and the answer is always the same "search on youtube or google it" well i thought i would just search this as i had a bit of spare time and wanted to help. This has probably been done before but when i search i only get a how do i? and a pdf file. this was found on another site.

You will need:

1.) Heat gun (temperature controlled preferably).
2.) Isopropyl alcohol (acquire from chemist).
3.) Vacuum cleaner or compressed air blower.
4.) Phillips screw driver.
5.) Flat blade screw driver or slotted torx bit.

Instructions

1. Remove warranty sticker and rubber foot thats positioned above hard drive bay.
This will invalidate any warranty.

2. Using a small flat blade screw driver or slotted torx bit, unscrew cover plate screw.

3. Slide cover plate towards the left until it stops and lift off.

4. Remove all Phillips screws marked noting size and position.

5. Hinge case towards you until disengaged and then tilt towards the left. See below.

6. Remove ribbon cable by carefully lifting black part of connector (locking tab).

7. Lift/tilt blue ray drive towards the right whilst disconnecting power cable and the large ribbon (lift tab) underneath.

8. Remove 5 screws and the earth wire screw on psu, and unplug connector plug.

Before removal of psu unplug small bnc connector (black wire) and remove tape on side of psu, now lift off psu.

9. Now remove the wide ribbon from connector (lift tab) unscrew the four screws on the Bluetooth board and remove.

10. Remove hard drive cover.

11. Unscrew blue hard drive screw and disengage hard drive by sliding towards gap in the bay.

12. Remove hard drive, see below.

13. Unscrew 4 screws holding the bracket, on/off and eject control panel. Remove small ribbon (lift tab) and remove control panel.

14. Unscrew 8 screws.

15. Lift enclosure out of plastic base, see below.

16. Now unclip black rear panel and remove.

17. Unscrew 4 screws and remove sprung brackets, see below.

18. Lift of metal cover plate whilst allowing ribbons to pass through gaps in plate without damage, see below. (Taking note where heat sink rubbers are positioned).

19. Supporting fan assembly turn board over, remove fan power connector and fan.

20. Remove 2 screws holding plate to hard drive connector and unplug battery connector.
Now remove plate.

21. Clean off old heat sink compound from the 2 mainprocessors using Isopropyl alcohol making sure all traces of the old heat sink compound has gone.

22. Clean both touch plates on bottom of fan/heat sink assembly with Isopropyl alcohol until all traces of the old heat sink compound has gone.

23. Now using a vacuum cleaner or compressed air blower get rid of all dust build up in the case and on all component parts of the ps3 (pay special attention to the fan assembly and heat sink fins(MUST BE CLEAR OF DUST).

24. Typical example of dust build up.

Ps3 case (dusty).
Heat sink plates before
heat sink compound removed (dusty).

25. Once cleaned you should now have a nice pile of bits that looks something like this, see below.
Now for the tricky bit!

26. Check the top metal cover plate (underside) for burn-in marks, as you can see below this ps3 got very hot before it yloded!

27. Place the ps3 mother board on a flat heat resistive surface (kitchen work top or melamine shelf will be fine).

28. Turn heat gun on and set temperature to 350 deg and the fan speed to low (to high and it will move the surface mount bits).Allow gun to get up to temperature before continuing!

29. Using a circular motion hold heat gun over areas outlined below (keep heat gun an inch above
board/components at all times).

30. CPU side first.

31. After 15 to 20 seconds move onto the next area.

32. Once all marked areas have been heated/reflowed on the mother board LEAVE for at least 10 to 15 minutes to cool. (DO NOT MOVE MOTHER BOARD WHILE COOLING).

33. A popping noise may be heard during cooling, dont worry this is normal.

34. NON CPU side.

35. After 10 to 15 seconds move onto the next area.

36. Once all marked areas have been heated/reflowed on the mother board LEAVE for at least 10 to 15 minutes to cool. (DO NOT MOVE MOTHER BOARD WHILE COOLING).

37. A popping noise may be heard during cooling dont worry this is normal. Heat sink compound still on in this picture, remove before reflowing. Heat sink rubber pads still on in this picture remove
before reflowing also hold ribbons out of way while reflowing

Congratulations!!

You have just repaired youre yloded ps3 mother board.

38. Now its time to apply new heat sink compound to the 2 processors, when doing this its always best to follow the manufacturers instructions but I believe the process is the same with all types (please check instructions that come with paste), before continuing

39. The paste I am using is called AKASA 450 its a silver based compound with a thermal conductivity of 9.24w/m deg c and an operating range of 0 to 200 deg c. You can buy it from most pc shops but I get mine from my local Maplin ( I have been told that there is a better compound on the market called arctic silver but I havent tried it as yet so the choice is yours).

40. Use syringe supplied and dispense a small worm of compound from top to bottom on the left hand side of processor chip, now using credit card supplied spread compound evenly and thinly over processor face (to much is bad and not enough is also bad) the ideal amount is when you can almost see through the paste.

41. Now repeat on the other processor.

42. See below.
NOW IT IS TIME TO REASEMBLE THE PS3.
RETRACE YOUR STEP IN REVERSE TO REBUILD
MAKING SURE ALL RIBBON CABLES HAVE BEEN
FULLY INSTERTED INTO CONNECTORS AND LOCKED
DOWN IE. (TABS).

[ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U70SgRDVcBo&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - ps3 ylod fix part1 gilksy[/ame]
(part 1) found on youtube no credit to me plz credit guy who posted.

[ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TePnCFKionE&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - ps3 ylod fix part2 gilksy[/ame]
(part 2)

[ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCYZ5ksExsk&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL]YouTube - ps3 ylod fix part3 gilksy[/ame]
(part 3)

[ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pGIE77M8zu4&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - ps3 ylod fix part4 gilksy[/ame]
(part 4)

[ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?vINm3jbZPRE&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - ps3 ylod fix part5 gilksy[/ame]
Part 5

[ame=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6ooJqJgk9E&feature=player_embedded]YouTube - ps3 ylod fix part6 gilksy[/ame]
(part 6)

Hope this helps??

No thankyou for taking the time to read (even though its a ball ache!!!!

you can add it if you would like or just tell them to read my post if their having a problem like I was having with it shuting off with no warning or standby light on. Na you dont have to give me credit for anything I dont even know what credit does on this site since Im new but it doesnt matter to me. Im just a auto motive mechanic I went to a trade school for it and I was the top student in my class so Im just used to fixing stuff and figuring out how they work and such.

I would like to say the same but cant but thanks for the help and here is some plus rep!

awesome thread man :y:

i liked waching the videos. very detailed indeed

I used this method many times on my 60GB in the past year, and i can 100% confirm it works. I would however just add one more thing, those ribbon cables - make sure they are well out of the way of the heatgun.

I broke some when it melted since i got to close, and the copper edges tore away and broke. I fixed it by using sand paper (If it ever happens to anyone here) after cutting them shorter.

A second point, those clamps holding the fan down, bend them properly, the tighter they are the longer between the YLODs I had recently. Between me and the kids the PS3 is used 10 hours or more per day, and by adding washers to the clamps i extended the lifetime between YLODs from 1 month to 3 months (My own statistics from personal experience)

thanks for sharing that mate +rep i love these little bits of info that keep coming in hopefully we are truly helping people with this!

Have never heard of this and cant find any other info? Care to post a quick tut on here of how to do the format using your pc? Just to keep it all in one place so everyone can see

How To Format a PS3 HDD Using Your PC
By uNReaL-x-TaLeNT


You Need a 2.5 USB SATA Cable Or You Can Directly Insert The HDD Into Your PC's SATA Ports On Your PC's Motherboard.


2.5 USB SATA Cable With All The Needed Components.

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What The SATA PORTS Look Like On The Motherboard

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The PC Will Detect the HDD, But Will Not show It Because It Is Formatted in a Unrecognised Format.

To Get It To detect The hdd, Access Control Panel, then Admin Tools, then Computer Management.

In The New Window Click Disk Management on the left Panel. Scroll down until you see The Disk which is the Same Size as the PS3 HDD. Be careful not to select any drive or partiton you have that is of a Similar size!

When You find it, Right click It and Quick Format using NTFS. This will allow it to be seen by the PC. NOTE: Windows Will Only Format HDD In fat32 Upto a Maximum of 10gb.

To Format The entire HDD as fat Use a Program - Such As Swiss Knife



Swiss Knife Application Download:

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If You Are Formatting to clear the HDD Just To Start from Fresh, Just Format Upto the Quick NTFS Bit then Insert The HDD back In the PS3. The PS3 will ask you to Format the HDD Again.

NOTE: You Will Need a Copy Of Firmware 3.60 Official Firmware On a USB. You May Need a Lower Firmware Depending On Your Firmware Before Formating. Check The Playstation.com Website For Update Downloads.