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Thank You. It helped a little bit. I drove my fastest lap after changing lsd.11/18/5. Car is not ok but better.

I have changed pretty much about my driving style with this car: trail braking, always on throttle, avoid lifting throttle to zero when cornering, use gears to control reducing of speed ( rev limiter ) and letting full throttle on - those were the most important changes compared for ex 86. I have used this kind of style before with my other MR car, which I have driven a lot of kilometres. Without this kind of changes in driving style I can't control Evoras sliding rear end.

I must study more the influence of lsd to rear ends unwanted sliding during cornering ( MR cars ).

Jouni

Hi Jouni,

In what part of the turn does the Evora lose the back end? Or is it bad throughout the whole corner? Any chance you could post your current setup please?

Also, just to clarify, you're on RH tyres? I don't have much experience of R grade tyres but they do tend to grip well but once over their limit they will let go very quickly. Does the car feel the same if you change to SS?

If you want to try fun MR cars, try the 1980s Toyota MR2s. The one with the supercharger was an absolute bullet in gt4.

EDIT: I've just tried this car. Stock, with enough ballast added at position zero to reduce the PP to 450. On SH tyres (that it came with) it was a little unstable, a bit of lift-off oversteer. On RH it became far worse and a real handful. I've had a few beers so am probably not at my best, but here is my setup after 15 mins of drunk driving.

Jouni, adding some ballast towards the front is almost certainly correct, but I understand that you don't want to make the car too heavy in general. I was going to do this but ended up playing with suspension and LSD instead, then ran out of time.

See what you think of my setup with the ballast at zero, then try moving it towards the front.

All items stock unless specified

Fully customisable suspension (most of the settings are stock at one end, I was just changing the rear):

RH 80/105: Unsure if this is the correct rake, need to check. I also tried with front high but it didn't feel as stable
SR 4.08/6.90: rear to minimum, probably overkill.
Dc 3/1: Low rear damper
De 3/1
ARB: 3/1
Camber 0.5/2.5: increased rear camber to give more mid corner grip... although the car was also loose at entry so this may not be necessary.
Toe 0.00/0.60: Stock I can't believe the car was this unstable with stock toe in, I never usually use this much on my FRs! MRs are different for sure.

Brakes 5/3: I reduced the rear in case this was giving entry oversteer. I think the problem was more lift-throttle oversteer rather than braking though.

LSD Fully customisable I/A/ 10/40/40 I don't usually use much if any braking LSD. Most of my FRs can understeer on throttle lift, this car is the opposite. If I want more response on corner entry I usually up rear brakes to help rotation or play with the front camber, damper or springs. Braking LSD affects all types of deceleration, lift-throttle or actual braking. So i added more here.

Ballast 166 at position 0 (worth trying -50, maybe with less ballast)

Cheers,

Bread

Still dealing with internet BS, cut my speed down a LOT seems to have it working, but stupid slow. If this is it I'm canceling and trying to get cable or something else faster.

Stocked to see the Thread Stickied even cooler to see you guys keeping the thread active while I'm away. I Really appreciate it guys.

I seem to be able to connect at least so I'll try to catch up over the weekend.

Thank You Bread. I will try Your approach.

My current setup is below, not good. There is one intresting universal point in this car: what to do different with MR cars vs FR cars to get it good.

First I correct tyres: it's sports hard, not racing hard, my mistake.
85 / 86
4.45 8.30
4 3
4 3
5 1
0,5 0,8
-0,24 -0,36
Brakes 5 5
Lsd 11/18/5
Body: all weight reduction installed. Ballast 54 position-50.
Problems are everywhere if You must lift throttle during cornering to avoid hitting someone. Exits of turns 1. 4 and 5, last turn is a nightmare. If You are not on throttle when turning in, You will face problems everywhere ( lift oversteer ).

I have moved this setup from basic FR style to somewhere darkness ( for ex rear camber, rear toe, rake etc ), but results are not very good. I try to find some kind of direction from FR to MR, witch I could use with all MR in the future.

I think there are living some aliens on this planet. Sometimes You can meet them also in gt6. I saw one yesterday in online race with his rx8, time 1.24,1xx. That's something, but there is more: that alien drove all his 8 laps clearly under 1.25 ( parameters on the lobby: tyre wear very fast, all real, all assistants off, min weight 1.120 kg, sports hard, big willow ). I don't know witch part of universum they are coming from, but they are exceptionally fast.

Edit:
I tested Evora with SS tyres with above setup. Difference between SH and SS tyre are huge - around 3 sec and the car changed much easier to drive. There is still tendency to slide in the last corner, but with a smooth driving it can be done fast without problems. Softer tyres can hide quite a lot of problems in setup. I think I must check my other cars I like with harder tyres, just to see is my setup so good what I think. There might be big surprises.

Jouni

@Jouni, soft rear? Swap arbs and try more

Quick for fun made test, not quick on track but maybe usable to steal ideas..

93/94
4.08/7.79
5/4
3/4
3/5
0.3/1.2
0.00/0.07
5/6 bb

Gearbox fully custom, just 20kmh shorter from stock custom box (260kmh)
LSD
15/27/5
Clutch standard
166kg ballast at +5

57ext for testing, not best but just testing.
No oil change.

@ Bread
Summary: your setup is better, much better. It might be little bit slower in one lap, but the car is much more in control. More reliable.
Front ride high ( 80 vs 85 ): good idea
Rake: good idea, I use rake 10 at the moment.
Rear spring: good idea
Dampers: good and intresting idea, must remember this approach
Arb: I use 4 1
Rear camber: excellent idea, must remember
Rear toe: good idea, I hope this will wear less rear front tyres than sliding, must check online races.
Front toe: -0,24 is better for me.
Rear brake: good idea to use less rear than front.
Lsd: good idea, it's working well.

If this is universal road from FR to MR I try to remember following:
More rake and low front
Soft rear
Soft rear dampers
Big camber rear
Big toe rear
Arb, bigger front than rear
Rear brake balance less than front
High brake lsd

This is now my starting principles when doing setups for MR.

Now I can drive this car the way I like.

@ Ode. I tried different arbs. Without any other changes it effected the nature of sliding. ( aggressive vs smooth and long ). I couldn't take that unwanted sliding away by changing only arb.
Edit: Sorry Ode, I didn't notice that there were more text. I try Yours approach.

Jouni

@ Ode
I tried and this its very different. This setup needs much better driver than I am. It requires extremely smooth and gentle style.

There is something what make this setup very difficult for me. It's probably toe, arb and ballast. I will steal and try the rest parts.

About lap times:
In arcade mode lap time should be between 1.23,5 - 1,23,8 and online it must goes steady under 1,25 (1.24,4 - 1,24,8 ) before its competitive. When tyre wears it should stay very low 1.25 and the most important, the car must stay on the track when the tyres are more worn ( laps after 6 ). The rear left tyre wear is challenging and the last corner is the most dangerous during last laps. Evora is competitive only, if there is min weight in the lobby - if there is no weight restrictions, the funny little Suzuki is faster ( it's around 20 sec faster in 8 lap race, so no change with Evora ).

Jouni

Hi Jouni,

I will have another play with the Evora if I get time, the quick setup I posted was actually on RH tyres, glad the concepts worked for you on SH. It was very extreme - I don't usually go setting springs and dampers to bare minimum, but just wanted to provoke a change in the car's behaviour. The stock Evora had me swearing quite a lot!

My general theory on springs is that they (and dampers) affect all phases of the corner (including entry which I was trying to tame here). ARB is more mid-corner biased since the car develops max sideways load transfer here - the ARBs don't do anything unless the car is rolling sideways, but the springs do things under longitudinal loading as well as lateral. I do find that ARB can affect throttle application, so it's a bit more of a "late entry to early exit" situation, than just pure mid-corner.

The Evora reminded me of the feared Ruf yellowbird. In GT5, at least, this car would brutally swing around. Another car with this behaviour was the Mazda Cosmo 110S in GT5, but in GT6 the Cosmo is much more stable (one of my favourite cars - I like the low HP light ones!). It might be worth scouring various GT sites on yellowbird tuning (it's technically an RR not an MR but the same deal - all the weight is in the back!).

One of the early Porsche 911s (in real life) was called the Widowmaker due to fearsome lift-off oversteer. The Ruf is a close relative... and it feels like this Evora might have just joined the family!

Cheers,

Bread

@ Bread
I give You good advice: don't try SH tyres.
If You like real challenge - try SH tyres.
If You want a nervous breakdown - try online races with very fast tyre wear, try 10 laps race and try to survive laps 7 - 10. I promise, that the last corner will give You experience, which You don't like. After that horrible nightmare, You really understand what means trail braking and what means don't lift the throttle.

Edit:
You are right about Evora and Ruf, same category. I don't have Ruf, but I've seen many of them in online races. Fast on the straights but it looks like everyone has big difficulties during corners. Actually I haven't seen anyone who is really fast with Ruf, probably because of setup difficulties.

Jouni