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@Jouni, Evora needs smooth inputs..

@ Bread
There is one thing about Evora what is bothering me. Actually this is coming from Odes setup. I can't drive this car without negative front toe ( with small negative camber ) or without very high negative front camber ( with zero or minor front toe ).

Could it be possible that there is also other way to do setups than using pretty high negative front toe with small negative front camber to get the front end drivable? Is it possible to find faster setup by using very high negative camber with minor front toe? It's more Sinister style, but I think we should use even more camber than Sinister is using to get the car drivable ( Sinisters drivingstyle is very smooth ).

We are both pretty close each other ( setup style and driving style ) and that's why I ask Your opinion. I'm planing to go back to 86 ( maybe Miata. I would like to use also Evora, but Evora might be too difficult for this ) and check is there possibility to find better setup by using less front toe with high front camber. If the lap times are better and tyre wear is better, then this path is better than the way we both are using at the moment. If You have time, just do little bit testing. Try also how much Evora is changing ( Odes setup ) when You add more neg. camber. This is just to have little bit fun, but the results imight be interesting - required changes in arb etc.

@Ode
Your driving style is different, more smoothly and You can read and feel the changes of the car much more sensitive than I can. Despite of differences in drivingstyle ( at least with Evora ), it would be nice to hear Your thoughts about this toe vs camber vs tyre wear.

Jouni

@Jouni, will check later.
Having just more and more fun with Evora, making "replica", current settings are changed again, not much but something, will post that later.
Currently doing normal Evora and Evora S replicating, close to same power/torque stuff, identical gears etc.
All this started after looking some YouTube video what was showing me one surprise, my tune what was made from feelings/feedback/etc was having identical front camber and toe what original Evora uses, -0.3 camber 0.00 toe, laughed when saw that. More nice flashbacks coming from engineers comments, telling same what I figured out during tuning, this car is just slowly going into my veins.

Test my mantra for G27, connect it on ps3 when game is started and it's telling your 200% bonuses, after wheel has calibrated do start+select+O then rotate wheel to test at it has changed rotation to 670°, then press start+select+X and do rotation test to ensure you're back 900°.
After this go and test my Evora setup, I'm claiming at there is less deadzone on steering after that. 6/6/10 at sensitivity/ffb/ffb.

@Jouni, small changes, but bit faster, copypaste gearbox from real (5th shortened bit, and 6th calculated right).
93/94
4.99/9.65
8/7
6/6
5/5
0.3/1.3
0.00/0.06
5/5 or 5/6 bb

Gearbox 300kmh
3.538
1.913
1.407
1.091
0.874
0.741
3.777 Final gear
15/27/19
91.9% (earlier probably had oil change? This not)

Gears 3 to 5 used only on big willow, third only on corner combination 3-4-5.
Rims, what you feel best..

You must have magic on Your hands Ode.

I tested Your setup again. Results:

1 ) Lift off oversteer and spin: turns 1, 2, 5, and last.
2 ) Drifting: turn 8.
3 ) Lost control and out: turn 6 ( suspension).
4 ) Little difficulties: turns 3, 4
4 ) Turn 7 was ok

Good way to have a nervous breakdown.

Jouni

I find when a tuner and drivers styles both mesh well the best results come out. Usually if a Driver likes the tuners style he will be confident and do well with most (not all) of their tunes or take little refining to suit them. Ode is precise on his wheel and tunes his car to react to his input style, while others may find it very unforgiving.

My suggestion is to tone the aggressiveness of the tune so its more forgiving, once Drivers become accustomed to it they may find speed with the unforgiving set up they can't get out of the more forgiving set up.. Unstable is fast but unstable

@sinister, exactly.
I feel very comfortable with that Evora setup, far away from unstable on my hands. But yes I'm seeing your point about precise on wheel, I like to have direct input/reactions on car, I'm ready for them and those aren't giving me any surprises, I'm just well connected to car and it follows my orders precisely.
Evora and sudden throttle lift-off aren't matching, never do such a move on any car, Evora won't forgive if doing so.

All very true.
I think Odes setup ( top speed, gently tyre wear ) with good driver is a combination what is hard to beat. The longer is the race, those advantages will be seen more clearly.
I'm pretty surprised how difficult this setup is for me. The simplest solution for me is not to drive it. This might sound weird, but I'm using this setup quite a lot. There are 2 very good reason for that.

First it's good way to learn driving more smoothly - I can trust that this setup is good, so this gives me motivation. In this point the trust is very important. It's a good method, I have use this earlier, mostly with Sinister setups ( Miura, Miata + driving school video). It takes longer time to develop smoothness, if I only use my own familiar setup. And yes, I exercise and this has given good results when I race with my own setup. Exercising with a plan is one thing I can recommend to everyone.

Second. If I change something in this setup ( for ex front camber ), I can see the result much more clearly. Much more clearly than changes in a very spot on setup for me. This is increasing my knowledge and experience to do better setups for me. It also gives ideas, I wouldn't normally even think.

I'm little bit behind with my driving skills, but after 200 hundred years of practice, I think I will be pretty close.

Jouni

@Jouni, downshifting is most important thing with Evora, hanging on higher gear till downshift hits on good rpm area where it won't lock rear, also some small amount brake pedal lifting included during that downshift. Reason for lifting brake bit= brake+ engine brake after gear change is higher than grip, leaving room to keep rear wheels stay on grip until braking harder again.
Downshift when turning in and braking is really difficult, setup has long gears and you can be on smaller gear before your turn radius is risking rear grip if downshifting.