Post: GT6 Game Physics Testing
04-30-2014, 09:03 PM #1
SiNiST3R
Samurai Poster
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GT6 Physics Testing & Analysis

These are Post of Interest

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Lap Battles
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Here are some videos (I can only add 2 so Ill link post where videos are posted when I can)



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The following 9 users say thank you to SiNiST3R for this useful post:

Jounijkk, kazzbakkisback, nextgole, OdeFinn, P$ycho, policedu, q-k, turbo_nova2l, tyronekfc
05-05-2015, 05:38 AM #569
Originally posted by Jounijkk View Post
This kind of competition is one way to measure tuners cars. If it's increasing fun factor then it's ok. It can also make tuners profile little bit higher and it might also courage some new tuners to send their setups, that's why this kind of competition has very positive side.

I might think too much about real world: setup is for one individual driver and it's based on drivers feedback. Good mechanic ( best tuner ) have skills to change setup to directions what driver want. And good driver have ability to give precise feedback about the cars wanted and unwanted behaviour. Good driver can also drive laps at the same time ( very little time difference ). That way is possible to measure affects of different setups. At the same time there are other factors to think for ex tyre wear etc.

Because of my real world thinking, I find it impossible to find the best of the best tuner by measuring average times of different drivers. Of course there comes one result, but for me as a driver the worlds best setup is useless if it doesn't fit on my hand.

There is one thing what I'm missing in tuners garages:
There is normally one setup witch is the spot on for somebody. But what if I want more aggressive front end turning, more stable rear end, more oversteering or understeering? There is no hint about those things ( the cars are different, common knowledgeable isn't enough). What happens? After a long work I have finally reach a point where the car follows my eyes. Now there is a fast setup for me - among horrible tyre wear, smoke from the front tyres, useless car with cs tyres etc.
So, I'm missing alternatives for different driving styles. Yes, I know. It's a lot to ask.

Jounijkk



If you want driver tuner tuning session, hit up suspension aka yokomichi garage, he is a super kind and helpful, have a real tuning garage in Japan, and much like ridox, know what he's doing. I have been in a lobby with ridox and his answers to my question is similar to suspension/yokomichi, very nice people, can quickly diagnose car issue and provide good input to help personalizing car tunes.

Suspension often online, so asks the guy on PSN, super cool guy. I have been having some thought, what if hami, praino and those glitch tuners meet with suspension and try to fine tune a car for another guy, which one will be giving better tune to suit the guy ? haha

Sinister, have you ever met suspension online ? you should friend him on PSN, you two would match up well Smile
he do not publish tunes, but specializing in personal tuning session with clients, what a guy.
05-05-2015, 06:21 AM #570
OdeFinn
Bounty hunter
@Jounijkk, @RocketScientist, that tuning by driver feedback is easy to do, IF you understand what you are doing, and driver has ability to tell clearly how car behaves on his point of view, and how he want it to behave, or not to behave. I have done this type of tuning several times, first looking driver style, discussing about that then suiting car on that style, testing with driver and then making adjustments to fit it better if not getting it perfect yet. Then comes another thing, suiting particular car on someone driving style for some particular track to achieve best setup for it. Best setup is not necessary fastest hotlap setup, coz I'm doing tunes racing in mind, so tyre wear is one concern thing on it, races can be win with bit slower car what has good tyre wear and there fore taking one stop less than others, or not necessary one stop less, it can be just better driving ability on well worn tyres and hitting better lap times on laps just before pitting.

I.e. My competition tune is tuned on maxed balance between all areas, making it turn quicker/slower under/oversteer etc is easy, but most drivers will be pleased as is, there is not much what to improve without losing something. Cars are not tuned for any particular track, or are, to all tarmac tracks. Do you don't need to do else than drive it, there will be enough gears to go on Nordschleife or Monaco. Tyre wear is not prefect, with small adjustments can be get 30-40% better wear, but there is always cost for that, there is small adjustments and it rises wear approx 30% and give more precise behavior, car what nearly goes on rails, but racing is not going on rails.

Most leaderboard drivers are those rail drivers, they can hit car on perfect rail, but they are in deep shit inside racing pack, or fellow racers are. Coz those leaderboard drivers have no ability to use alternate lines/rails and fellow drivers get on their way and hits will happen, and LB driver gets away from situation he caused by just his fame, accusing others to be on his way, or not giving space to faster driver.. Stupid guys, faster driver behind pack is SLOWER driver who need to get his way to lead pack by CLEAN overtakes, not because of his fame and people giving way, they need settings what suits also on different lines than those perfect TT lines, but there is problem, they don't know how to modulate their lines, then they just switch paint on other drivers cars what gets on their way... Many league racer will found this pretty common thing Smile
My CRZ last test on Nordschleife online, against some normal troll cars, check on uphill part, I'm having faster car behind me, but there is real racer driving it, he knows is it safe or not to overtake, not those idiots who just tries overtake on Mutkurve by pushing inside and risking both:

Zero losses with this car, and no competition if started from pole, 8:17.*** - 8:18.*** lap times when starting pole. Lucky me Winky Winky


But there is some drivers who want understeering car, providing that is not problem, even it feels wrong to do that type of settings when you have perfect direct steering instead of that.. So many people, so many styles..
05-05-2015, 07:53 AM #571
Originally posted by k View Post
Beware. This guy is a troll. Most probably paid (badly?)

No,he is not a troll.
Johnny just has different opinion.

The following user thanked hristo1026 for this useful post:

OdeFinn
05-05-2015, 08:59 AM #572
Originally posted by hristo1026 View Post
No,he is not a troll.
Johnny just has different opinion.


Cunning Troll, act like no troll but smells like one, hiding behind opinions. I have driven lots of glitch tuners from fitt since gt5, and they are all crap which made people call gt5/6 simcade. the only savior now are ridox and the new one eag, elegance something, their first car, first gen corvette, also a replica, also made with ridox help, a real piece of work. Meticulous details for realism, totally the opposite of hami and their gangs. I read ridox review on the car, really a different level of writing, which shows how much experience and knowledge he has. Check the EAG garage, read page by page, look for ridox review, he even wrote suggested changes for the car with details. that is the kind of review all fitt tester/tuner should write.

I'll quote the posts here :

Originally posted by another user
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Sorry if I have been late in testing the car Smile I had one short session at Tsukuba, ran some laps on CS tire, just keep going lap after lap, checking the nuances and unique traits of the car when driven hard :p

Review Report - Ridox2JZGTE Template :

Tuner/Builder : Turnleft and Thorin Cain
Car : Chevrolet Corvette C1 '54
Tires : Comfort Soft
Track : Tsukuba

Overview :
Balance : Very nicely balanced for over 50 years old car, mild understeer on turn in with progressive oversteer on exit as the pedal commands it Happy

Ratios : The gear ratio is tight, really well matched with the engine, the power started to drop off above 5000 RPM, shifting just past it will still keep the engine in power band and gives nice impression of more grunt under the hood.

Engine : The power and torque is well chosen, the tire and chassis can take abuse well. First and second gear acceleration will keep the heartbeat pounding.

Feel : The car overall feel is direct, nimble, supple rear end and gives you confidence.

Chassis : the chassis felt rigid and stiff, the rear felt planted, while the front can be felt light at times.

Straight line stability : low ride makes it stable at high speed. This would great for high speed cruising on the highway.

Bumps : at Tsukuba, when riding the curb on the Dunlop esses, the car can get unsettled, enough to cause rear traction loss when not careful.

Detailed :

Balance
Slow Curve : the hairpins at Tsukuba is a bit tricky ( 1st corner and 2 hairpins ), trail braking is very important and hitting the clip point requires good steering accuracy. Mild understeer when entering too hot and exit oversteer is easily kept at bay ( can happen but progressive )

Medium Curve : Dunlop esses gives the car a good test, turn in is good, but transition from right to left can be dangerous if throttle control is not maintained well. The rear easily gets unsettled with aggressive line. Riding the curb also can make the car slides.

Fast Curve : easy to pull, the left curve after the Dunlop is easy to take. The last turn only needs quick tap on the brakes, and the car glides in to the clipping point, holding speed at 70mph with good stability, exit needs precise throttle timing ( rear damper is bit soft ), but still quite good traction from the rear tires.

Corner Phase :
Initial Turn in : Can brake quite late, full brake force possible on 1st turn and both hairpins, accurate turn in with the rear stays planted.

Corner Entry : Good, but some laziness at certain situation ( wider line or late entry ) and going too hot can be remedied with some left foot braking or lift off safely. Some push might happen on 1st turn if brake too late, but can be corrected. Aggressive entry is possible but tricky to pull.

Transition : at Dunlop esses, the right to left transition can be tricky at times, especially when overspeed on entry. Most other corners transition from braking to exit are smooth, but the 1st and last hairpin exit can be demanding if the line is not ideal.

Corner Exit : Good exit traction on most situation, oversteer is there, but progressive in nature when it comes out. Low gear might need some care. Aggressive exit can be hit and miss, especially on cambered exit.

Other Stuff :
Wheelspin : minimal and easily avoided.

Bottom Out : none at Tsukuba.

Brakes : brakes are very bitey for such a classic, but late braking often gave me impression of not making it even with full brake force, but rarely the brake failed me, unless I brake too late.

My suggestion for the car :

Lowering rear extension by 3 and increasing rear compression by 2 to improve rear traction a bit ( stiffer but slower, stable on turn in ), rising the rear arb by 2 to limit rear side to side weight shift as well as keeping the rear more stable on higher speed corner ( less outside wheel load ), and increasing front damper extension to 7 ( balance/slows the weight transfer to the rear as the rear compression increased and allows more aggressive steering on exit and braking )

Hope my review was useful Smile


The car itself :

Originally posted by thorincain
Ladies and gentlemen, we apologise for the wait and thank you for your patience.

We have recently finished and delivered our first restoration to our client. So the time has now come to let all you fine people here in GTPlanet see the end result of our inaugural project.

As this is the first one we've been discussing the best way to present these tunes, and given the amount of information we wanted to include was HUGE we are going to try this way and see how it goes.

Please feel free to give us any feedback or suggestions you may have. I'm sure [USER=251965]@TurnLeft[/USER] (aka. Moose.) and myself (aka. Sleepy.) will be glad to read them.:tup: Don't worry, we don't bite :lol:

We would both also like to take a moment to thank [USER=211395]@Ridox2JZGTE[/USER] for all of the help and guidance he has given us with this project. From steering us in the right direction and helping us out with our research, to teaching us what most of what we found actually meant :cheers:.

So without further ado....




Chevrolet Corvette Convertible C1 '54
[ATTACH=full]325864[/ATTACH]
Photo by [USER=203422]@Leoz96[/USER]

Scenario by [USER=251965]@TurnLeft[/USER]
Anybody who's opened up a shop will always remember their first customer, especially if you have a sweet classy 61 year old 5'4" blond women walk in the door who leaves you a blank check to restore her car.

Sophia (last name omitted) has been recently widowed, her deceased spouse had bought a 1954 Chevrolet Corvette to restore it for her birthday, that being the year of her birth. She has decided to go on with the project in memory of her sweetheart.


TL: How do you see yourself driving this car?

Sophia: To tell you the truth Turn, I really don't like that color, I would like something classier, I do like being looked at and white is a bit out of fad, I don't know what color, why don't you surprise me.



TL: And how would you like it to handle on the road?

Sophia: Well I don't want it to feel like I am in a kitchen mixer and I certainly don't want it to feel like those sofa cars. I will be driving this everday on the country roads so it has to handle those kind of roads.


TL: So something sporty that can handle well but won't give you a back ache.

Sophia: Yes.


TL: Do you have any objection if we use other parts than the original?

Sophia: As long as it looks the same and performs like I want, I don't really care what you put in it, but it must be classy.


TL: Well I'm sure we will be able to make this project turn out to your dreams. If you are ready I have the contract here, we will need a deposit of ..(she hands me a signed check)

Sophia: Well you put the final payment on it and call me when it's ready, I do hope it will not be too long. (After taking the check her hand stays up, I figured it wasn't for a hand shake so I kissed it and watched her gracefully glide out the door.)



Chevrolet Corvette Convertible - A History.

The year was 1953. A year filled with many influential and historic events all across the globe.

Dwight D. Eisenhower succeeded Harry S. Truman, to become the 34th President of the United States. There was the death of Joseph Stalin and the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II of the United Kingdom.

In the Arts, the first colour television sets went on sale, Ian Fleming's first James Bond novel, Casino Royale was published, Walt Disney released Peter Pan and Arthur Miller's Drama “The Crucible” opened on Broadway.
Also, the 25th Academy Awards Ceremony was held and for the first time, broadcast live.

Mankind celebrated the achievement of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay as they became the first men to reach the summit of Mount Everest.


In the motoring world. Alberto Ascari of Ferrari completed back to back Formula 1 World Drivers Championships and become the first man ever to win multiple titles.

And on June 30th in Flint, Michigan U.S.A, A car was built and a legend was born as the Chevrolet Division of General Motors Company, built the first Corvette.



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Overview
Manufacturer: Chevrolet Divisionof General Motors.
Production: 1953–1962
Model years: 1953–1962
Assembly: Flint Michigan United States (1953–early 1954)
St.Louis, Missouri United States (early 1954–1962)

Dimensions
Wheelbase: 102 in (2,591 mm)
Length: 177.2 in (4,501 mm) (MY1959)
Width: 72.8 in (1,849 mm)
Height: 52.4 in (1,331 mm)

Originally designed by Harley Earl, the first model, a convertible was built as a concept show car for the GM Motorama display at the 1953 New York Auto Show. The two-seater FR sports car generated enough interest that GM were inclined to make a production model. In 1953, 300 hand-built cars were released. All in Polo White with a Black soft-top. After planning 10,000 units a year GM managers almost shelved the programme in 1955 but the Corvette was saved by the production of a 265 cubic inch “Small Block” V8, ( Chevrolet's first V8 since 1919) with an output of 195 bhp and a 3-speed Manual Transmission coupled with a 3.55:1 rear axel ratio. Also by the influence of Belgian born American engineer Zora Arkus-Duntov, who personally wrote to the Chief Engineer at Chevrolet after being so “Awesome faceisappointed” at what lay beneath the “Visually Superb” body. He began working for Chevrolet on May 1st 1953 and became known later as the “Father of the Corvette”


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    • Chevrolet Corvette 235 Blue-Flame Powerglide, model year 1954, version for North America U.S. (up to October)


    • 2-door convertible body type


    • RWD (rear-wheel drive), automatic 2-speed gearbox


    • Petrol (gasoline) engine with displacement: 3859 cm3 / 235.5 cui, advertised power: 112 kW / 150 hp / 152 PS ( SAE ), Torque net: 302 Nm / 223 lb-ft


    • Characteristic dimensions: outside length: 4249 mm / 167.3 in, wheelbase: 2591 mm / 102 in


    • Reference weights: shipping weight 1227 kg / 2705 lbs estimated curb weight: 1290 kg / 2840 lbs


    • How fast is this car ? Top speed: 164 km/h (102 mph) (theoretical);


    • Accelerations: 0- 60 mph 11 s, 0- 100 km/h 11.5 s (declared by factory), 1/4 mile drag time (402 m) 18.1 s (a-c simulation)


In 1954 production was moved from a makeshift assembly line in an old truck plant in Flint, Michigan to St. Louis, Missouri and a larger factory, more suitable for mass production. Chevrolet produced 3640 Corvette Convertibles in 1954 and a third of them were unsold by the end of the year.

The chassis and suspension design from the 1949–1954 Chevrolet passenger vehicles was used and as mandated by GM Executive Robert F McLean, off the shelf mechanical components were also used to keep costs down. The passenger compartment and Drivetrain were moved rearwards to achieve a 53:47 Front/Rear Weight Distribution. The engine was the same 235 cubic inch in-line six “Blue Flame” that powered all other Chevrolet models, but with a higher-compression ratio, Three Carter side-draft carburettors, and a more aggressive cam were used to increase the output to 150 bhp. Because there was no manual transmission available to Chevrolet rated to handle 150 HP, a two-speed Powerglide automatic was used and the Corvette could achieve a 0-60 mph time of 11.5 seconds.


The body was engineered by Ellis James Premo and was made of Glass Reinforced Plastic (Fibreglass.) The windscreen had a 55 degree rake and was made of safety glass and the licence plate was set into the body and covered with a plastic window. In addition to Polo White (3,230) another three colours were added Pennant Blue (300), Sportsman Red (100) and Black (4) and the Soft Top was changed from Black to Beige.
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What followed was 60 years of being recognised the world over. As one of the iconic car names in history. A history which now spans 7 generations and more than 1.5 million cars sold World-wide.

The Tune
[ATTACH=full]326030[/ATTACH]
Photo by [USER=203422]@Leoz96[/USER]

Specifications:
Performance Points: 414pp
Max. power: 230 bhp
Weight: 1283 kg
Weight Distribution: 53:47
Drivetrain: FR


Parts Fitted:

Body Paint: Black Cherry Metallic (Chevy Nova)
Wheels - Size up 2" - Boyd Coddington wheels, Legecy F-09
Wheel Paint: GT JAPANESE 002-C

Fully customizable Suspension
Fully Customizable Transmission
Fully Customizable Limited-Slip Differential

Engine Tuning Stage 2
Semi-Racing Exhaust
Sports Catalytic Converter

Weight Reduction Stage 2
Window Weight Reduction
Tyres: For road use - Comfort Medium. For sports performance - Comfort Soft.


Suspension settings:
Ride Height: 95/95
Spring Rate: 7.60/4.03
Dampers(Com): 5/4
Dampers(Ext): 5/6
Anti-Roll Bars: 5/4
Camber: 0.5/0.0
Toe Angle: 0.06/0.00
Brake Balance: 5/7 (For ABS=1, feel free to use higher values.)

Drivetrain:
Initial Torque: 40
Acceleration Sensitivity: 36
Braking Sensitivity: 5

Power:
Power Limiter: 98.7%

Body:
Aerodynamics: Stock
Ballast Amount: 155 kg
Ballast Position: 40

Transmission:
Set Final Gear@: Stock
Set top Speed @: 124 mph
Set Individual ratios to:
1: 3.280
2: 2.120
3: 1.570
4: 1.250
5: 1.000
Set final gear to: 3.360
Top Speed: 138 mph (Tested)

Due to the current Transmission bug, this method will no longer give you the correct results. Thanks to [USER=214794]@danbojte[/USER] and [USER=254034]@ALB123[/USER] for providing an alternative method. :cheers:

Set final gear to: 3.360
Set top Speed @: 130 or 137 mph
Set Individual ratios to:
1: 3.280
2: 2.120
3: 1.570
4: 1.250
5: 1.000




Below are PDF files with the work carried out and parts used on the car to achieve the values we have used in the tune. Please feel free to have a look through them and also check out the Parts and services post below for more information if you fancy.

Thank you for taking the time to visit us. We are glad to see you as always and welcome you back any time.
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05-05-2015, 07:07 PM #573
SiNiST3R
Samurai Poster
Originally posted by RocketScientist View Post
Saw this as I read some Pcars thread, I have the game on my PC and played it to kill time and LSD works in simplified ways similar to gt6. I don't think SMS simulate different types of lsd, they just use generic mode., so it has 3 setting only.


Wowsers a Low/Med/High system for LSD tuning... So 5/30/60 (more or less) lol



Originally posted by RocketScientist View Post
johny play safe with simple explanation but still fail at the last sentence, must never drive sports cars with factory high performance LSD like Honda NSX, the NSX, the real one will break the outside tire first on hard cornering exit. How do I know this ? I have driven it at the track day, not mine but I was invited to drive one by my colleague, the 3.2 NSX with single turbo on semi slick. Most fitt tuners never drive a real car with aftermarket lsd like giken or kaaz, they just stuck with low lsd because they can't drive any higher. Those low lsd used by fitt tuners are useless, hami guide is a joke, he must never drive his miata with good lsd like kaaz or tomei. Probably stuck with stock diff, yeah real racer, bohoo. Bet he never drives 500+HP car with decent LSD like kaaz at the track.
If the final build pcars have good lsd simulation, higher accel and preload lsd will always be better then low or lowest.


The NSX is known to eat its stock rear tires pretty bad from aggressive wheel angles, its also a Mid rear with relatively low torque stock known for pendulum rotation if pushing to hard on corner exit. Factory Diff on the NSX is weak. I know people who up the grip and power of the NSX usually go for a tighter diff as loose diff on the NSX with increased power and grip causes problems. Too LIGHT a diff setting actually can cause sudden snap oversteer (trailing throttle oversteer) that a tighter diff setting would be used to counter..

Also you were using Track tires and could of just needed to warm them up a bit more before the car settled in..

How the diff will be set up when the car is modified will depend how the car was modified. Many (not all) go for a high rear wing for down-force to aide trailing-throttle oversteer. However other go for a no huge wing approach, then these 2 are further separated by how much power they go for. Furthermore the type of set up they use on the suspension will also impact wht type of Diff set up they go for. AND THEN the tires used can changes things.

For an example a Guy going for High Power, with high down force and high grip, its going to depend on if his power is enough to overcome the down force and grip of the car (mechanical and tires) if it does we go for a tighter setting, it don't have to be tighter than it need be.

However If a different Car with the Exact same Aero, Same tires and Same suspension set up comes out with much less power, its not going to use as tight a diff setting, its going to go for a much more open set up to tune out the diff induced understeer of a stiff diff with low power but high grip.

Its a weird mix of types of grip (aero/mechanical/tires) playing on the chassis that will determine the best diff set up...

What the general pop can take from this is lower settings are easier more or less while stiffer settings are harder to drive with but have the ability to be faster if the user can match the skill required to push it. There are limits to everything tho. One can tell not much from one tune but we can see a pattern across many tunes, weaker settings generally are easier to drive hard....



Originally posted by RocketScientist View Post
This guy, easy ?



Originally posted by Bealdor
Diff settings are actually pretty easy (and very powerful)

High limited slip acceleration lock: better acceleration out of corners but prone to oversteering
Low limited slip acceleration lock: worse acceleration out of corners but car is more stable (easier for beginners)

High limited slip deceleration lock: worse turn in into corners but more tendency to understeering (safer)
Low limited slip deceleration lock: better turn in into corners but prone to oversteering

Limited slip preload: Essentially raises/lowers both diff settings simultaneously and determines how fast the reacts to load changes


While very vague and a bit ambiguous its not "wrong" perse, its just far from that simple.
05-05-2015, 07:56 PM #574
OdeFinn
Bounty hunter
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Honda CR-X SiR '90

185 bhp, 18,5 kgfm, 916 kg, PP 410
Painted in Flint Black Metallic from Honda

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Clickable for full size

The following user thanked OdeFinn for this useful post:

SiNiST3R
05-06-2015, 12:16 AM #575
q-k
Can’t trickshot me!
Originally posted by Jounijkk View Post
This kind of competition is one way to measure tuners cars. If it's increasing fun factor then it's ok.


I didn't mean to "keep you away from GTP". Not at all. Main reason to play games is, to have fun. Whatever increases your own fun factor on it, is legit. As long as you don't troll online games with a CFW Winky Winky

What I really ment to say was, make up your own picture about him.

Originally posted by hristo1026 View Post
No,he is not a troll.
Johnny just has different opinion.


He might not be a troll at GTP. I don't know and I don't care.
But, "different opinion".. Heck no. Praising "reasoned adult discussion" and in the next posting getting back to a level of discussion that kids are going for? While he complained about such a discussion earlier?
What is this, if not trolling?
Did you even take the time to read all of his postings in this thread?

A lot of questions..

And yes, this didn't happen only once and I'm not trying to rip apart a rare occasion..
But enough, I also didn't mean to post unnecessary offtopic crap here..
05-06-2015, 02:58 AM #576
Originally posted by SiNiST3R View Post
Wowsers a Low/Med/High system for LSD tuning... So 5/30/60 (more or less) lol





The NSX is known to eat its stock rear tires pretty bad from aggressive wheel angles, its also a Mid rear with relatively low torque stock known for pendulum rotation if pushing to hard on corner exit. Factory Diff on the NSX is weak. I know people who up the grip and power of the NSX usually go for a tighter diff as loose diff on the NSX with increased power and grip causes problems. Too LIGHT a diff setting actually can cause sudden snap oversteer (trailing throttle oversteer) that a tighter diff setting would be used to counter..

Also you were using Track tires and could of just needed to warm them up a bit more before the car settled in..

How the diff will be set up when the car is modified will depend how the car was modified. Many (not all) go for a high rear wing for down-force to aide trailing-throttle oversteer. However other go for a no huge wing approach, then these 2 are further separated by how much power they go for. Furthermore the type of set up they use on the suspension will also impact wht type of Diff set up they go for. AND THEN the tires used can changes things.

For an example a Guy going for High Power, with high down force and high grip, its going to depend on if his power is enough to overcome the down force and grip of the car (mechanical and tires) if it does we go for a tighter setting, it don't have to be tighter than it need be.

However If a different Car with the Exact same Aero, Same tires and Same suspension set up comes out with much less power, its not going to use as tight a diff setting, its going to go for a much more open set up to tune out the diff induced understeer of a stiff diff with low power but high grip.

Its a weird mix of types of grip (aero/mechanical/tires) playing on the chassis that will determine the best diff set up...

What the general pop can take from this is lower settings are easier more or less while stiffer settings are harder to drive with but have the ability to be faster if the user can match the skill required to push it. There are limits to everything tho. One can tell not much from one tune but we can see a pattern across many tunes, weaker settings generally are easier to drive hard....








While very vague and a bit ambiguous its not "wrong" perse, its just far from that simple.



The NSX has decent stock lsd, as I recall, the car had only about 340bhp from low boost turbo, and it was a daily driver with everything intact, so it must have been quite heavy. I definitely felt the rear outside loses traction first when I floor it, not a weak diff in my book, maybe because the car has low miles and had the diff oil replaced.
05-06-2015, 03:19 AM #577
MLB
Former Moderator
If the flamming doesn't stop I am just going to have this thread deleted. That is the only warning.

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