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original source video an excellent video and made sooooo long ago featuring both Nikki Lauda and James Hunt, although this is when Nikki was the recognized best ever, so James is only helping Nikki out a tiny bit in his video.

We got a liar here, I have been lurking in pcars forum at gtp, and you are one big liar. So you have clio cup manual, why did you ask ridox then in clio thread in pcars ? Ridox answer was a smack in your face. I sent him PM to get the full details so I can use the real car tune, oh wait, we can't change some stuff in pcars cliot to fix it, some of them are greyed out. Cut the bullshit and don't spout lies, you can't change some stuff in real clio cup and pcars you can, but alas, some of them are wrong and only SMS can fix it, bohooo.

Don't be a dickhead fanboy, you are too old.

I cant believe that Dumbass is all Hyped over Shift 3 lol enjoy tweaking the steering wheel setting all the time jus like Shift 1 and Shift 2, just when you think its right, drive a different car (even one you previously tuned, if tuned on different steering settings) and they are out the window...

Liar tho, well that's nothing new...


WOW just checked the PCars Clio Thread at GTP JohnnyPenso seriously lmfao your begging Ridox for the data, so your going to look at your owners manual or beg Ridox for some Cleo Data?!?!?!?HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAAH That made my half hour...

I have some question about setup vs real world setup. These questions might be stupid, but I asked it anyway:

1 ) How to decide amount of camber?
In the real world we use thermometer to decide amount of camber. When the temperature are equally in the inner part and outer part of the tyres after heavy driving, the camber is ok. In this game is no thermometer. Are You using the temperature indicator in the screen to decide amount af camber?

2 ) Amount of camber
In race car cambers are usually negative 2,5 - 5,5, rear negative 1,0-2,5. In normal car I would expect camber front negative 1,5 - 2,5 and rear negative 0,5 - 1,5.
I have very seldom seen that amount of cambers. Why?

3 ) Front vs rear camber
With modern tyres the amount of camber front are allways bigger than rear. I have seen in this game many good setups with bigger negative camber in the rear than front. What is the purpose to use more negative camber in the rear than in the front?

4 ) Front toe
In real world I remember to seen toe out ( negative ) but never seen toe in. Again, I have seen good setups with front toe in. What are the tuner lookin for when they use toe in in the front?

5 ) Rear toe in Your BRZ
You use 0,62 rear toe and setup feels ok. Real world toe in rear are used when the car needs more balance in breaking. Is that the reason?

6 ) How to decide amount of toe
Is the amount of toe based on driving experience or is there some kind of thumb rules?

Jounijkk

They all look good to me



I try to tune in the best feeling car, and I look for cooking tires, and try to minimize the damage. FWD cars its relatively easier looking at smoke vs the tire colors. Zero camber cooks tires and too much camber cooks tires, but get it right and the tires last longer. The smoke makes it easy as smoke means somethings cooking.



Most don't use high camber in GT6 out of fear of the angle or something. I have ran race cars with well over 5.5 front camber with at the same time over 3.5 rear, and it handles great, I pushed the Camber to -8.0 deg up front and it was still fast, but it takes a driver and that's a Race Car. I don't go (as) aggressive on street cars that are much less rigid, and don't have huge downforce up front and in the rear.

Id love to see how far real world style tuning could go but the movement is still too small to really see what kind of aggressive camber angles can be used, we need a handful of guys pushing high camber cars as fast as possible and vocalizing it. We need to get a few good tuners and fast drivers together for some sessions...

The way the races are set up most often, No tire wear no fuel consumption with assist for short sprint style races all this hinders a car set up to be driven in real world type circumstances, its funny those guys often think of themselves as SiM Racers lol but they wont race when you go for more SiM & less Arcade lmfao. When they do turn on tire wear they try to make sure everybody in the race has a zero camber state of mind if yah know what I mean... I have been kicked from rooms from being too fast, I think its a bit of the car and a bit of the driver, but if asked why my car corners so fast and smooth, I usually get called a liar if I say its tuned in camber.

Many real drivers see the world is thinking things like camber zero is faster, if that's what they think play into it as it will just keep them slower longer. Real competitive Top Drivers don't share their Tunes..

I tried a few times to promote a tuner comp that would award the fastest car with the highest camber the winner but too much arguing with the zero camber crowd takes out your energy. I mean after all, it is a game and if some idiots actually want to continue being stupid who am I to stop them...

I think a comp like that would be interesting but a tough sell, However there have been many eyes opened since then that possibilities of it materializing into something interesting and fun may be possible..



There are many ways to tune a car, and styles vary from platform to platform, drivetrain to drivetrain layout to layout. I find often (and this is not always depends car, brand and a whole lot more) but generally a lil more camber where the weight is, if thats the front as most cars then the front get a lil bit more but like a Porsche if the weight is in the rear (Porsches get to 40/60) then a lil more in the rear.

A Race set up is a different story, Like my Golf Tune. I use high rear camber to go with the stiff rear end promoting pivoting the outside rear vs rolling into it, reducing much of the camber gain, so I counter the loss of camber gain with camber angle to deal with the roll camber. Front tires are steering and accelerating and I need to BOTH Outside AND Inside TIRES to stay as Flat as possible with the body rolling, Ive got very little front roll resistance, no ARB so my INSIDE front is as heavy as possible to put the power down as I use the throttle to catch and steer my way out the corners.

A good sign your on the right track, is little to no smoke as you car cuts fast laps, a sigh something is wrong, leaving trails of smoke and rubber around the entire track.... This is much where I say real world tuning benefits come in. Because Im always looking for cooking tires and tuning to minimize the cook reducing smoke and tread mark trails. Naturally this at the same time extends tire life and equally good keeps the car handling relatively the same as tread wears off more reducing the peak grip as a whole.



Front toe is always up in the air from car to car because of the ackerman effect on the steering. Different wheel tract and ackerman bars will vary front toe settings, however toe is used as a kind of blend setting, it too is set up very much like camber when tracking the car using temps and wear patterns what the settings ends up doing is blending the other suspension settings together. We use it to refine the handling of our set up.



Partially yes. without ABS I use rear toe very much for keeping my rear end in check while braking into the corner but also for when Im throttling out of the corner it can help fine tune slip angles to keep one side (F vs R) from getting too aggressive.



A little bit of both, I always feel out every setting, but I use general rules of thumb as I go. Im often tuning toe and refining camber at the very end of a tune. Its hard to say whats done exactly as I hit the track for some laps but don't even need to finish one depending on what I feel I head back to the settings page for a tweak then back to the track just long enough to feel what Im looking for, and its hard to say what Im looking for other than I know it when I find it. At some point everything starts working so well, I don't see the laps going by and after each lap you get to the point like Nope I dont want to change a thing. Then the Set up is perfect for that moment. This is what I tune for. I ride the Golf and can just run lap after lap after lap and all Im focused on is my driving technique, the cars doing its job.

That BRZ set up is pretty old from a few updates ago, *cough* 1.06 or 1.07 IIRC when I was tuning it. Hows it holding up on 1.18? She was quick back then.

WOW JohnnyPenso is more delusional than I thought... This guys literally following me around like a lost puppy, hmm you could call it stalking lmfao but thinks Im stalking him because I go look at a thread another member used to point out his lies as he came in here posting more bullshit... I go look and see that indeed JohnnyPenso is full of shit as always...

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Like I said, getting it from your "Owners Manual" like you claimed OR beggin Ridox for them ROFLMFAO like I said...

Yeah and you are indeed right, FINALLY HE GOT SOMETHING RIGHT there is no Cleo in Shift 3 Racing AKA pCARS.. Its at the same time unfortunate hes just being pretentious as always :rolleyes: he and everybody knows I mean Clio Cup Car.......


Ahh I get it Its not really JohnnyPenso, its really JohnnyPretentious that would just be too long ROFLMFAO

Hi SiNiST3R,

I've just driven your golf at Monaco.

Couple of things:

95% of the time I drive FR cars, and not on Monaco, so I'm definitely a fish out of water. Best lap so far for me is 1'55.5 (no ABS). Sadly I'm on DS3 as the DFGT attracts too much attention from my 2 yr old!

I really like the mid corner and exit behaviour on this car. To begin with I was pushing it too much, trying to get on the gas too early and having to jump back off to bring the nose into line again. When I'd forced myself to calm down I realised how nice this car feels at part throttle operation. "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast".

One thing I am really struggling with is turn in under braking: I'm getting understeer, struggling to get the car to rotate with trail braking, (but a bit of lift off oversteer seems easy to come by). I'm therefore getting nearly all of my braking done in a straight line, turning in with very light or no trail braking, reapplying gas and then lifting off if necessary to mid-corner correct. I noticed on your video that on several corners you don't brake at all, just lift off the throttle. I was able to drive a bit better with the rear brake balance raised to 8 as I could be a bit more aggressive on the brakes upon entry. Are there any techniques you would recommend? Did you consider other brake distributions when you tuned the car?