Hi SiNiST3R,

I've just driven your golf at Monaco.

Couple of things:

95% of the time I drive FR cars, and not on Monaco, so I'm definitely a fish out of water. Best lap so far for me is 1'55.5 (no ABS). Sadly I'm on DS3 as the DFGT attracts too much attention from my 2 yr old!

I really like the mid corner and exit behaviour on this car. To begin with I was pushing it too much, trying to get on the gas too early and having to jump back off to bring the nose into line again. When I'd forced myself to calm down I realised how nice this car feels at part throttle operation. "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast".

One thing I am really struggling with is turn in under braking: I'm getting understeer, struggling to get the car to rotate with trail braking, (but a bit of lift off oversteer seems easy to come by). I'm therefore getting nearly all of my braking done in a straight line, turning in with very light or no trail braking, reapplying gas and then lifting off if necessary to mid-corner correct. I noticed on your video that on several corners you don't brake at all, just lift off the throttle. I was able to drive a bit better with the rear brake balance raised to 8 as I could be a bit more aggressive on the brakes upon entry. Are there any techniques you would recommend? Did you consider other brake distributions when you tuned the car?

Front toe is always up in the air from car to car because of the ackerman effect on the steering. Different wheel tract and ackerman bars will vary front toe settings, however toe is used as a kind of blend setting, it too is set up very much like camber when tracking the car using temps and wear patterns what the settings ends up doing is blending the other suspension settings together. We use it to refine the handling of our set up.

As you can see from your own links, I asked him to post the settings since he said only one setting was missing (it's in the brackets you quoted). Asked, not begged. And then after saying only one setting was not accurate, when questioned, all of a sudden not just one setting is off, many are off. It's flamebaiting, that's all it is. You throw out the bait, hope someone bites, then you shut the door.

"Look one setting is off, PM for the answer"
"If it's just one setting why don't you just post it so we can all see it"
"It's not just one setting and so now I'm going to play the martyr card and claim to be all butthurt because some people disagreed with me online, so you can only have this secret information through a PM"

It's childish games, that's all it is.

"Look one setting is off, PM for the answer"

"""PM me if you want the real car setup ( caster, spring rate, tire pressure, LSD specs- preload, ramp angle/lock ratio, sway bars, camber and toe, damper for dry /wet - will need to adapt as the real one has adjustments in clicks ) The stock clio setup in pcars is not really accurate ( one of the suspension parameter uses previous gen clio cup ), it should be at least interesting to try the base setup provided by Renault Sport. I might also be able to help with Lancer FQ400""""

""""The stock clio setup in pcars is not really accurate ( one of the suspension parameter uses previous gen clio cup )""""

"The stock clio setup in pcars is not really accurate"

"""( one of the suspension parameter uses previous gen clio cup )"""""

"""one of the suspension parameter uses previous gen clio cup""""

It's flamebaiting, that's all it is. You throw out the bait, hope someone bites, then you shut the door.

"""Perhaps I'll return in a few days and share some gems from tuning in Project Cars when I take the Clio Cup Owners Manual and apply real world race tunes to my sim racing car in my racing sim. """"

"""If only one suspension parameter is off why don't you just share it with us and we can all use it if desired? """""

To properly corner balance your car, you need to have shocks with adjustable spring perches (i.e. Track Pack Bilsteins, Ohlins, Nitrons, etc.), and a set of weight scales. If you do this often enough, or are a car nut like me... you might buy your own set of scales; otherwise maybe you can borrow some from another nut.

The scales I have are from Longacre Racing; I've also purchased their roll-off levelers... that way I can compensate for my garage being about as level as the Arctic Sea during an episode of "The Deadliest Catch".

To level the scales, I use a contractor's laser level (Stanley makes a nice one for <$100). I set up the laser to be just slightly higher than the roll off levelers (10mm)... then I set each leveler to be an equal distance below the laser line by using the adjustable legs. I also try to adjust the legs so that the weight scales themselves are level on the leveler's platforms.

Now, since the weight scales are level, I can just measure the distance from the laser line to the car's chassis, adding the distance from the laser line to the top of the weight scale (in my case ~10mm).

Next concept... for those of you who might not be familiar with "corner balancing"... think of a four-legged table... if the legs aren't all the same length, the table will wobble. To fix the wobble, you can add a matchbook under one of the shorter legs (since it's harder to shorten a table leg than lengthen one). A car's suspension is similar... if there's a difference in the "height" of the corners, the car will not be as stable as if the heights match. The standard way to determine this is to compare the weight exerted on the left front + right rear wheels with the weight exerted on the right front + left rear wheels. With the scales I have, the "corner balance" is the ratio of the RF + LR weights divided by the total weight of the car. The goal is obviously 50%.

In isolation, tightening a spring (by lowering the upper spring perch) will raise that corner and increase the weight it exerts on the scale... loosening a spring (by raising the upper spring perch) will lower that corner and decrease the weight it exerts on the scale.

So if your corner balance is off, what do you do? If your RF + LR weight is greater than your LF + RR weight, you have the following options:

1. Decrease the spring compression of the RF (move spring perch upward)
2. Decrease the spring compression of the LR (move spring perch upward)
3) Increase the spring compression of the LF (move spring perch downward)
4) Increase the spring compression of the RR (move spring perch downward)

or, some combination of the above...

So what combination should you use?

This is where ride heights come into play. If your ride height is good, and you don't want to change it... doing all four equally should leave your ride height unchanged. Doing 1+2 will probably lower the car at all four corners, doing 3+4 will probably raise the car at all four corners. Doing just 1) will lower the RF and raise the LR, doing just 2) will lower the LR and raise the RF, doing just 3) will raise the LF and lower the RR, and doing just 4) will raise the RR and lower the LF.

Let's say your corner balance is good and you want to change ride heights...

Moving spring perches upward or downward (to lower or raise height, respectively) on adjacent corners (i.e. LR+RR, or LR+LF) has a minimal affect on corner balance while affecting ride height at those corners.

Complicated? Well, a little bit. The best way to approach it is to take notes, make small adjustments, and be patient. See if the adjustment you made affected the ride height and corner balance in the way you expected... if not, figure out what you did wrong.

This is an admittedly terse description of how to corner balance and set ride height... I suppose I wasn't sure how much detail to get into. In any case, feel free to critique, ask questions, etc.

EDIT: Forgot this... very important... always ballast the car before doing any suspension measurement. If you track your car and drive alone, ballast for your weight. If you drive most often with a passenger, ballast for both you and a typical passenger. Also, inflate your tires to their "hot" pressures. You might also consider disconnecting one side of your front roll bar so it doesn't bias the front weights.

EDIT2: This post is more of an explanation of the concept of corner balancing... I'll try to put together a series of pictures documenting how I set up my workspace and proceed to set ride height and corner balance. More to come...
__________________