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@q-k, well you gave idea how might try to gold that lmp1 seasonal, but as I refuse to use ABS on seasonals this driving without FFB can cause serious problems to get gold there
I didn't either do those X-car things on GT5, same crazy FFB reason, I have practically destroyed one G27 by racing gravel rally races on GT5, get new on warranty, now just trying to keep this alive long as it is possible.

If someone knows where I could order replacement motors for G27 I'd like to know too. Please.(just for reserve, no super hurry, but I feel/hear at other of my motors is slowly going, maybe small refurbishing can be made, not sure, will check that if it goes worse than slight sound).

Thanks for the feedback Jouni, if I get time I plan to try everyone's cars at Silverstone. I've had great fun looking at everyone's work in a very limited Spec like this, really nice to see suspension tuning in isolation (other than ballast).

Suspension is so complicated it's still bloody hard work studying it in isolation!

Cheers,
Bread

I think everybody really "got it" for lack of a better term. The idea behind the regs was to create a suspension based tuning climate where suspension tuning is the main focus, I feel this is very much the goal of the real world spec Miata racing too. I guess removing ballast positioning could isolate the suspension tuning even more, I felt it would be interesting simulate real world ballasting as any racing with minimum weights most cars are ballasted. It just feels like everybody really just got what I was going after, that's really cool.

I would like to add the tunes posted to the Spec post in the garage at the bottom of the post. This way readers can see the spec with a few examples of cars tuned to the spec they can try out, the goal being really for people to try out tuning BUT having a few examples to look at will help, especially when the tuning is isolated, each car practically identical except in the suspension settings.

I might set up a SiM Garage tune off, where tuning is limited to suspension tuning and maybe a limited parts list, my goal being to see how different people approach building the car up with selective options where there are multiple ways to achieve the end goal but those are still limited and interesting. I have some things I's thinking of working in, but still brainstorming them.

An example of something Im brain storming would be to set a PP limit that the car can not fully hit without using the flat floors, setting it up with a car that lets say will come 10 to 15 pp shy of the limit without flat floors (still working of the best gap) IF the PP limit can be hit without flat floors then pretty much 10 times out of 10 pp will be hit wthout them because the pp hit from installing the option is too big, Im trying to figure at what pp gap would it level out. I think you can see where Im going with that, but I'm still thinking things through.

Yes it's been amazing to see how different those setup can be, all still good.

Your ( Bread ) setup confused me a little bit. Setup is very good, I drove my fastest time with it in Tsukuba.

In my thoughts rear camber should be smaller than front - it seem I have thought this wrong.

Second, where I'm lost is the amount of front camber and the relationship between front camber and front toe. I have thought that if You want to concentrate of turning in fast speed corners, go heavy front camber and heavy minus front toe ( but those are opposite forces like Ode told ). I suppose my thoughts has been wrong.
You ( Bread ) used small amount of camber and heavy minus toe - it is working. At this point of my driving style, I like it, because I can steer the car to exit point. I have also a feeling that I can control the car. Only negative side is, that it's not so gently on tyre wear.

Sinist3r approach is more camber and not so much minus front toe - this feels also ok, it's more gently to tyres, but more difficult to me to steer to exit point. Ode is also using minor minus toe in front as he told in his post earlier - also the reasons why.

Now I'm thinking, is it possible to find your style of cars ( front end ) behaviour with more gentle tyre wear by using more front camber ( something like -0,5 / -0,4 = ~ -2,5 / - 0,05 )? I'm concentrating the feeling of front end, because the front end feeling and good control means for me 1,4 sec faster time in Silverstone and 0,4 sec faster time in Tsukuba.

Sorry about misspellings.

Jouni

@sinister, freely put my tune there, but better if later, or adding alternate version later, had changes on tune, making it faster/better.

@Jounijkk, opposite yes, but if you put much negative toe it goes "over" and makes front to turn in corner easier, and if rear is not stabilising exit it easily makes car oversteer exit, fixing this oversteer on front only is problematic, not impossible. Easier to fix from rear putting enough positive toe to grab rear in line.
I like more car what just sticks in line/ground than grabs into corner. But again no simple answer for high negative toe on front, so many other things can make it work like dream, sinister has shown this on his tunes already.

@Jouni. My reason for using less front camber is that, when steering, the built in caster (set by PD) will start to add to the camber. The more lock you use (tighter turn), the more neg camber the outside front wheel gains, and this feels too much for me. I just find if I use more front neg camber I get red outside front tyre. Since the rear wheels aren't steered, they don't gain camber like this so I start with more in the setup.

This is just my feeling.... SiNiST3R has excellent discussions of the inner workings of GT6 physics, there are also issues like suspension geometry, camber gain on compression that he mentions.

I have a hunch that kingpin axis inclination may not be modelled in GT6.... If it were modelled, it would reduce neg camber gain on steering, countering the caster effect... SiNiST3R, have you seen anything in the specDB about this?

I would have to agree. while the geometry is in the leverage factor specifics like kingpin axis are not IMO in there at all. I see NADA that would correlate to anything like it. Its also tough to test if there is any angle reduction but it seems like there is none.

@bread82, quickly tested your tune, was surprised how stable it was, had one mistake on settings due quick apply of tune, tried BB 5/5, managed 1:03.70x on Tsukuba(4laps driven totally). Testing that your BB later.
Later: your brake balance wasn't for me, I lost grip on all wheels or rear wheels on corner entry, managed to run 1:04.1-1:04.5 times, reducing balance and time improves, for me it was easiest to control tire traction on corner entry with 5/5 balance, run 10 laps with that balance and worst time was 1:04.1(drive bit out), all others were between 1:03.365-1:03.886. There is done tenth to improve if I could get clean lap, and no mistakes on braking.

@sinister your cleaning lady has left trash mail on your box.. Clean up bit

lol she so lazy shes about to get fired lol I had to clean it up myself lol