(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({}); This is my Garage, Ill post various set ups here as Demo cars for My Real World Style Tuning. These cars are all tuned for zero assist and using the tuning techniques I go over in my various threads on tuning. I will put up examples of my tuning tools at work, and I plan to post videos showing how I use my tuning tools to demonstrate what they can do for tuners.

Unlike many if not most tuning garages for Gran Turismo, these cars are NOT tuned to be the absolute fastest cars possible, my cars are tuned to feel as real as possible within the limitations of GT6 and a Console Game. They are tuned with no assist and using real world tuning principles and practices. Cars built with ABS-1 to go as fast as possible throw real world tuning out the window in favor of glitch/exploit tuning, anything to go faster. While ABS can be used to simply make driving a bit easier, it can also be used to run unrealistic settings in unrealistic ways. Those are Alien Space Ships with Alien Drivers, my cars emphasize on the Simulation aspect while Alien Cars go for Arcade all the way while "saying" SiM.

Please do not post set ups in here, although you can post request for cars you would like me to tune.

Online Racing Set Ups Section

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Super Street Set Ups Section

Coming soon, organizing

Racing Set Ups Section

Coming soon, organizing

Stock Cars with a Great Drive Section

In this section I will highlight cars in GT6 that need no tuning at all. Cars that drive so great out the box its almost a shame to touch anything, and the real world character is captured in the game remarkably. These are not cars that just handle good stock. These are cars that behave as the real cars do and so driving them can give a great experience to the user.

Classics

Toyota 2000GT (NO ABS)
Plymouth XNR (NO ABS)

Car List Coming soon, organizing

NOTICE
Please do not post set ups in here, although you can post request for cars you would like me to tune. I would appreciate if people do not post set ups in here as this is my Garage for showcasing my set ups.

Muira bought, Building her up to 550pp, what tires are you running on her?

Normally racing soft and nurb 24.

Jounijkk

I'm looking for nascar setups for Daytona, focus on speed not stability,i got a few setups Ive been tweaking,would be good to try yours

WOW this car is quick, almost as quick as my CSL with only 10 laps on the track

There is a lil trick to these MR that the tail end just seems to keep on rotating I use that works So well its not even funny, Ive got a base set up so far that is FAST and a great base set up. Ive only got 10 laps in on it so Ive got a lot of refining on it to do but if your interested Ill PM you the base set up and see how you like it.

I have been tuning it on Sports Soft tho but thats no big deal as a Base set up will move up. Ill switch on the RS and refine the set up on RS, but I think you might want to try it out as is, because I get the feeling you can tune and I think this base set up might be just what you need and we can work on it from there.



Ive got one in the works already but its an Offline Tune focussing on the NASCAR series, Ive not yet go online for NASCAR racing so Ill have to give it a try. If you are using it online Ill need to know the details of the room, like tires power limiter (as the ASPec events re power limited) tire wear, lap count and all that Jazz.

The next step for the tune is going online with it, but I need to finish it up for offline first. It smokes everything, but something about the Willow race has me puzzled (its an easy win, nothing about that) just the AI behavior raises my eyebrow, n I want to explore it some more.

Yes please, I'm extremely intrested in what You have found. I've been struggling with this car at least half year, but I haven't found any solution of the rear end and body roll. Well, professionals are professionals and amateurs are amateurs. It's amazing how fast You have found basic setup. It's very pleasurable to get Your findings.

You mentioned csl, this car is also intresting if You think it's faster than Miura. I haven't seen any fast csl on the track before, never seen time under 8 min and Miura goes under 7.50. But I haven't seen You on the track. When I'm talking about time, I mean standing start.

I really appreciate Your effort what You have done.

All the best
Jounijkk

No problem its such a quick car I can see it being a killer, most thinking it will end up in the dirt but I think it will sit at the top of many podiums at the end of the day.

Now the set up is going to be TIGHT very very stable this is where we start from and we have all the oversteer we need available to tune in as we please.

I started with a basic drop

Ride Height
90/95

then I set the springs as we discussed n while the values are identical the leverage factor converts this into a much stiffer front end vs rear

Spring Rates
7.00/7.00

then set the dampers to the springs

Comp
5/3

the ext I set up for lift oversteer control (before anything first test is to flip the setting, try the front setting on the rear and rear setting on the front paying attention mainly to the throttle lift off oversteer

Ext
6/4 or 4/6

I have it set to 6/5 ATM for first run, but 4/6 or 5/6 may churn better transition.

The sway bars as we discussed stiff up front and soft in the rear.

Antiroll bars
6/2

Now the surpriser is going to be the wheel angles, might seem extreme they will surprise you

Camber(-)
4.0/3.5

Toe
-0.50/0.55

Also we have a light car with high power and no downforce so I set the diff up accordingly

I/A/D
5/20/10

Once we have the suspension more dialed in we can get more aggressive on the diff as the set up allows us to

Brakes set to start at 5/5 we get the required offset balance buy the calipers and disc size, this is better than some might think, IMO best place to start.


At this point the car will be super super tight, except you may notice its tight tight tight until a lil throttle oversteer if your too hefty on the pedal, the rear wing option can cool this down at this point. I like the rear end still having the ability to get pushed out on throttle as the tune allows for it to be caught with a lil counter steer vs most that snap spin at that point.

First step is figuring if your going for the wing or not remembering the tune will be tight. Once decided use ONLY as much down force as you need JUST for that lil bit of rear stability.

Then we attack the springs reducing the front to increasing the rear 2 to 1, I adjust twice as far on the front that the rear until general balance is set, then ether side individually if need be. Remembering softer is more grip, stiffer is less grip. I adjust the grip balance as need be, I try to tune so that front and rear both hit max grip at relatively the same time apexing.

Next we go BACK to the wheel angles for refinement..

Ive only use the max speed slider to push the gears out a bit as refining them will come after the suspension is much more together.

Let me know where you feel it from there, remembering the spring rates will unlock a lot of overersteer on tap if you feel its way to tight. I like to go from tight to lose vs lose to tight if yah know what I mean.


The CSL is UBER FAST at 550pp on Sport Spoft Tires. Going up to racing softs shifts things for it a bit as other car on RS will not be as crazy as on SS. Running no assist at Silverstone on SS tires she keeps up with X-Bows and passes them. X-Bows at 550pp are deadly in the right hands with the right tune, and Im not talking about the driving in reverse BS Ive seen going on with them. Give her a try, trust me the car should tune out to be a killer even on RS.

Extremely intresting and it's also surprising. Now I need little bit time to study and understand the relationship between drivetrain, rear suspension, wheel angles and toe. I also want to understand the rear value of antirollbar.

I never would have discovered combination heavy wheel angles with heavy rear toe and value 2 in rear antirollbar and drivtrain value 20. I waited drivtrain something 11 6 20, softer rear suspension, much bigger value in the rear antirollbar and most of all much less wheel angles. Rear toe is intresting with camber.

Now I must test that settings and understand the logic of Your approach. You have opened my eyes and my way of thinking.

Best Regards
Jounijkk

Ok sounds good,rooms are usually about 35 laps.

Tyre wear is usually set to medium or fast, i mostly use racing hard

No power restrictions in most of the rooms i play in.

Thanks.

Im always glad to introduce a new way of looking at something

Here is a good read on the principles used and why.

""""""""""""In a turn the car generates lateral force at the tire contact patch, which is transferred to the chassis and causes the lateral acceleration through the turn. Since the center of gravity (CG) of the vehicle is above the ground, this creates a roll moment which must be resisted by the suspension in the form of roll stiffness: the resistance to roll motion of the suspension. This stiffness can be expressed as degrees of roll per G of lateral acceleration. In order to corner most effectively each tire must generate the most lateral force it can. The ratio of lateral force versus vertical force of a tire decreases as vertical load increases, and so it is desirable to keep the vertical loads on all four tires as equal as possible. The total amount of weight transfer for a given vehicle at a given lateral acceleration is constant, dictated by the track width and the height of the CG. While we don’t have a choice about the total weight transfer, for a vehicle on four wheels we have a choice how much of it each axle resists, as it is not statically determinate. By increasing the roll stiffness on one axle of the car we can create a greater imbalance in the vertical loads on those wheels and decrease the overall grip on that axle. A large part of suspension tuning is focused on finding the right combination of front and rear roll stiffness that gives the car the desired handling characteristics. This is usually described as a car that is fairly neutral, without an excessive imbalance between front and rear grip.

There are as many different suspension setups as there are cars in racing. What makes them work? Consider a vehicle with a 50/50 weight distribution, so that the front and rear of the car support an equal amount of vertical load. In order to generate the most lateral force possible the wheel loads should be kept as equal as possible as the car resists the roll moment. On our theoretical car this would be achieved with equal roll stiffness front and rear, so that when the car reaches equilibrium in the turn the front and rear axles have contributed equally to the roll resistance. In reality this is rarely the case because we are rarely in a pure steady-state cornering condition. In most cases there is some longitudinal acceleration thrown into the mix in the form of braking or traction. This means we have to modify our idealized cornering setup to give the desired handling under these combined states. In order to generate longitudinal force the tire must borrow some grip from the lateral force used in cornering, so we want to have a bit on reserve when we need it. On a rear wheel drive vehicle, we can make the front roll resistance a little stiffer. When we do this the rear axle is left doing less of the total roll resistance and so is capable of generating longitudinal force even when the front is fully saturated in a turn. This helps when exiting the corner on the throttle, giving the rear tires some traction so they don’t send the back of the car sliding out of the turn as soon as power is applied. It helps when braking as well, as the front of the car will tend to lose grip before the rear and the car can corner while braking without the rear of the car trying to pass the front. We now have a car that has a little understeer built into it while still behaving well under race driving conditions. No one likes a car that tries to kill them.

In reality, very few cars have a true 50/50 weight distribution. Whether it’s a rear-engine Porsche, a mid-engine formula car, a front-engine Civic or a Mustang with a heavy V8 on the nose, most cars have a heavy end and a light end. When choosing front and rear roll stiffness of a vehicle, it becomes a game of adjusting the work done at each end to make the car handle well.

A front wheel drive (FWD) vehicle naturally has a higher front weight percentage: typically around 60% of the total vehicle weight rests on the front wheels statically. If a FWD race car was set up with roll resistance proportional to the weight on each axle this would result in lots of understeer as well as traction issues when cornering, as the weight transfer would be greater on the front axle than the rear. To combat these tendencies FWD race cars are set up with a higher roll resistance on the rear axle than the front. This causes the rear axle to support more of the roll moment than the front axle, leaving the front tires with extra grip that can be used for acceleration. An obvious downside of this type of setup is that it limits the amount of braking force that can be applied while turning, as anyone who has raced a front wheel drive car can attest to.

There is a limit to this game of stiffening the rear axle however. Under constant lateral acceleration each axle can only transfer as much weight as it has available statically. In other words, the total axle load remains constant as the vehicle corners. Obviously the rear axle has less load to transfer than the front, around 40% of the vehicles weight. Once the rear axle has transferred all the weight it has available the inside rear wheel lifts off the ground and any additional weight must be transferred at the front axle. Since the car was set up with a much lower front roll stiffness, it is left with the challenge of having to resist the roll moment of the same vehicle mass but with a fraction of the roll stiffness available. Remember that due to the much higher roll stiffness of the rear axle the remaining front roll stiffness is not half of the initial stiffness. Instead, it is the percentage of the front axle stiffness relative to the total stiffness, which may be as little as a third or less. With the full mass of the car only being supported by a third of the roll stiffness, the roll angle per G of lateral load is much higher and any small increase in lateral acceleration results in a huge amount of body roll

the increased roll motion translates into positive camber gain on the outside tires, which is a sure-fire way to lose grip. Along with the roll motion comes the problem of chassis heave. Because the rear axle has no more weight to transfer the car cannot roll further onto the outside rear wheel, and instead just pivots about it. Anyone who has seen a VW Rabbit teetering through a turn is seeing just that: the car is rocking along the outside rear and inside front wheels and the chassis is bouncing upward and pitching forward as it does so. This increase in bounce travel raises the CG, further increasing the weight transfer and exacerbating the problem. Luckily this feedback loop is interrupted by the outer edge of the outside front tire grinding away from the positive camber gain, and the front of the car begins to slide as the driver complains of understeer. And that’s when things can get a bit out of hand.

A car on three wheels is statically determinate. This is an important point to note because it means we have lost our ability to tune the balance of the car with roll stiffness. But without realizing the situation they are in, many people try anyway. They may increase the stiffness of the rear axle in roll, which only serves to make the problem worse as it runs out of weight to transfer even sooner. Remember that the rear is already at a disadvantage, as it is the lighter axle and so has less weight to transfer in the first place. They may try some form of droop limiting or preload, hoping that it will “hold the inside rear wheel down”, but again physics isn’t on their side. Preload and droop limiting just reduce the amount of travel available before the inside wheel rear runs out of vertical load, and with no mechanism for the tire to pull the car downward it is perfectly happy hanging out in the air watching its other three friends do all the work. A droop limiter is just a much higher wheel rate and only serves to cause a lot of weight transfer on the rear in a tiny amount of travel while the front doesn’t contribute much. This can also create a very non-linear behavior in the suspension which can be hard to predict and tune around.

If so many things can make this effect worse, what can be done to fix it? Fundamentally we need to keep a four wheel vehicle on four wheels, even if the inside rear is only touching the ground as a token gesture. The first thing that will make all subsequent tuning easier is to eliminate any preload or droop limiting of the rear wheels, so that when the tire achieves zero load the spring is fully unseated and has run through its full range of linear travel. Moving as much weight to the rear as is practical will also help, giving the rear more weight to transfer in a corner. Once that is done, if the inside rear is still lifting it is actually time to make the front stiffer. While it may seem counter-intuitive based on driver feedback of the car plowing across the track, it will serve to reduce the roll angle of the car and correct the camber without changing the load distribution. The goal is to sync up the inside rear wheel running out of load to transfer with the entire car running out of lateral grip, so that no more load transfer will occur and the car is left on all four wheels. In a FWD car the driver can buy a bit of rear load by applying the throttle. This causes forward acceleration, transferring load to the rear tires and helping the inside rear stay touching the ground. With enough power it might be desirable to compromise corner entry by lifting the inside rear in order to have the car in the optimum spot on exit when the driver gets back on the throttle. By tuning the car to get the inside rear just touching under corner exit acceleration you have maximized the inside front load under acceleration, which can aid traction.

Up to this point the discussion has focused on front wheel drive cars, but this is akin to having a higher front roll resistance on a rear wheel drive (RWD) car in order to reduce the weight transfer on the driven wheels. Similar to the FWD scenario, a front-stiff setup on a RWD car can be taken too far as well. This is especially true on mid and rear engine cars which don’t have a lot of weight on the front. The bottom line is that a car on three wheels probably isn’t doing what you hope it will, and it can be a long and frustrating day getting it sorted out.


""""""""""""""""""""

For Diff tuning ARB SR all go together very very important to each other.

Remembering the springs push the tires into the track, while the ARB will tend to lift the inside wheel. The weight of our inside wheel will play a role in how much power we can put through it and thus how stiff we can set up the diff.

Here is some good stuff on clutch pack differentials. As what I believe PD are simulating in GT are clutch pack adjustable differentials.

"""""""""""""""""
In general, lower powered cars with lots of tire (Formula Atlantic and 2Liter
Sports racers) will use steeper ramps and fewer active clutch/stator interfaces.
Additionally, very little preload is used. As a starting point, Formula Atlantic cars
will be frequently set up with 80º ramps for both drive and coast, 2 active
surfaces per side, and just 10-15 lb-ft of preload. A Can Am car differential could
be set up with 45º ramps on both drive and coast, with 6 active surfaces per side,
and 140 – 160 lb-ft of preload. The Formula Atlantic will have a chassis setup
similar to that used by the open diff: Relatively stiffer springs and lighter bar at
the rear. The Can Am car will be set up in a similar manner to the cam and pawl:
relatively softer springs and a large rear swaybar to help lift the inside tire. The
big bore car has the advantage of being able to “steer” with throttle, adding
throttle to eliminate differential induced understeer on turn exit. (One trick used
for Formula Atlantic cars with very steep ramps - 80º - is to place a thrust bearing
at the outboard end of the side gears. This eliminates the compression caused
by the spreading forces generated by the differential gears themselves, so that
only the ramp-generated compression forces are applied, nearly mimicking an
open differential.)

The Clutch Pack differential gives the engineer a very wide range of choices.
However, the downside is that each differential change must be followed by
spring, swaybar, damper or caster changes to optimize the handling. Also, the
clutch pack differential is not stable in that the preload torque changes as the
clutch/stator packs wear. The clutch Pack differential should be removed after
each race weekend to reset the preload, and to check the clutch packs for wear.
If this is not done, continuous handling changes will occur tending towards
oversteer. The Clutch Pack differential also generates heat because of the
slippage of the clutches as the car rounds a corner. Frequently additional cooling
of the lubricant is required. Finally, if the suspension unweights the inside wheel
excessively, wheel spin will result as in an open differential.

The Clutch Pack differential is a very useful tool for a professional team with
good engineering expertise. It is expensive to maintain properly.

"""""""""""""""""""

Some good reads on the principles used